Wednesday, March 29, 2017

Hyper TT front-mounted shocks

I spent a few hours at the track testing some stuff.  The initial plan was to work on my B64D, but I also wanted to test the plastic steering knuckles on the Hyper TT, so I started with that kit.

(Boiled) plastic knuckles held up great, and removed a lot of slop, so I'm going to stick with that and just keep extras in my parts box.  I also tested 10k rear diff oil and 5k, still not sure which I like best.  10k gives more forward traction and stability, but loses a bit of steering.  7k is probably going to be perfect.

But I tested out one change that made a MASSIVE improvement in the handling of the TT --



I noticed the Hyper TT has a ridiculous amount of rear toe-in (probably 4 degrees or so), and that the arms add about 0.5-1 degree of toe-in.  My theory was that this was adding a lot of push into the car.  So I flipped the arms around, and mounted the rear shocks on the front of the arm.

Bing blang blaow, this added a SICK amount of corner speed.  The truck enters the corner with way less push and rails through the corner much better.  You need to add 2mm of spacing on the shock mount (I used a TLR ballstud spacer), and you'll want to mount the rear arms all the way forward (spacers all in the back) because the hubs are moved back when they're flipped.

What this modification does is a few things:
  • reduce rear toe-in (main thing I was after)
  • forward mounted shocks, which centralizes the mass better.
The only downside I see is that the body doesn't fit right over the shocks, so you'll have to trim the covers on the shock towers from the body.

Try it, I think you'll like it.

Tuesday, March 21, 2017

22-4 one-way clicker

I spend a few hours at the track testing out some springs for the 22T 3.0, some diff fluids and front springs on the B64D, and I also tried out the one-way clicker for the 22-4 2.0.

The one complaint performance-wise I have with the 22-4 is that it doesn't like to land cockeyed on one wheel.  The one-way clicker works by allowing the front wheels to freewheel (or at least rotate at a faster rate than the rears) under deceleration, or when landing jumps.  This smooths out the landing if you're off throttle, at the cost of straightline deceleration.

Overall, I found the buggy to be more forgiving and smooth on landing jumps (and you can still power your way on landing like you should with a 4x4), but more unstable under hard braking.  I'm thinking of leaving it in since my son is the primary driver of the buggy, but for sure if it were my car I would take it out.  It's too much of a braking loss to justify the landing performance.

I also put up a review of the 22-4 2.0 on YouTube.  It's a bit long, but let me know what you think!




Friday, March 10, 2017

Team Associated RC10 B64D

I ordered this kit back in December, and amazingly it showed up on my doorstep the day after I got my 22T 3.0.  I didn't plan it that way, they just got released basically on the same day.

So I put together an unboxing video.  Got tires glued up, just need to assemble the kit now!


Thursday, March 9, 2017

Review in video

For those of you that are illiterate, there's a YouTube version of my 22T 3.0 review.  😁


Saturday, March 4, 2017

Getting your house in order

I cleaned up the wiring my 22T 3.0 a little, partly to drop a few more grams, but also because I'm planning to shoot a review video of the truck in the next few days.  The funny thing with shooting videos of your car, is that it's a bit like inviting people over to your house for a party.

You want to have everything nice and tidy, because it's kind of embarrassing to show off a really messy car (or house).  So this is probably the nicest wiring job I've done in any of my cars.


Thursday, March 2, 2017

TLR 22T 3.0 review



It seems pretty early for me to do a full review of the 22T 3.0, as I've only had the truck a week, and this is definitely the quickest I've decided to do a review, but honestly I feel like I know the truck well enough after having put in about 300 laps this week on a track layout I'm very familiar with.  So I've decided to do a review.

Initially I was going to do a video review (and that will come later), but for you guys who faithfully read my blog, I figured I'd reward with first.  So here it is, my review of the TLR 22T 3.0!


Overview:
I owned a 22T 2.0 for about a year and a half, and enjoyed it a lot.  It was a huge improvement over my other TLR, the SCT 2.0 and really got me to enjoy the stadium truck class.  I raced it occasionally as a second class to my 17.5t stock buggy, but I never took it that seriously.  Towards the end, I upgraded it with an Exotek chassis, 3-gear transmission, and some lightweight parts.  I feel like the 22T 3.0 is similar to my evolved 2.0 in many ways and features similar improvements.

The 22T 3.0 incorporates most of the changes I wanted to see -- transverse mounted battery, 3-gear transmission, and the option for a laydown.  I always felt like TLR needed to share components between the stadium truck and the short course, and it's nice to see the 3.0's now share arms, hubs, and steering blocks.


 
Build: 8
The build is quite clear and typical TLR.  The manual is an international version, and maybe not as easy for newbie to digest, but if you've built an RC kit before, you should have no trouble with the 3.0.  Though I feel Associated does a better job of hand-holding you through the build, for those who are new to the hobby.

Frank Root has a series of build videos on the TLR Facebook page that I highly recommend you watch.  There weren't really any build instruction errors (there's a phantom washer on the top of the transmission case, but that's about it).  In terms of manufacturing, there seems to be two things to watch out for -- the servo mounts need to be sanded down a bit to sit flush, and my kit was missing a screw/nut for the rear wing (3 instead of 4).  One thing I thought was done well, was that the kit bags contain all of the parts for the kit setup, so you don't have to figure out what pill inserts to use or Ackermann insert to use, etc.  You just use the parts in the bag and you'll be at kit setup.  Overall, I give the kit the same rating as my 2.0 build.


Design: 8
The 3.0 platform has been simplified overall from the 2.0 line, and I think it's more clean and elegant now that they don't have to worry about rear motor.  Oh yes, this truck is mid-motor only.  Not a big deal, as mid-motor will outperform rear-motor at most tracks, but this could be viewed as a downside to some.

Nice improvements are the transverse and inline shorty battery positions (the 2.0 was pretty much square/saddle pack intended), the simplified rear shock tower and camber block and the adjustable front suspension (variable length arms, adjustable trail, adjustable Ackermann).  The rear hubs are now the gen II aluminum/plastic hubs that are more durable.  The chassis features more milling than before, although weight is probably close since it is quite a bit wider.  Finally, the 3-gear transmission is a welcome improvement over the previous 4-gear.

The body is a huge improvement over the 2.0 body, which was just plain ugly and weird.  It seems to be very thick Lexan, although there are a lot of sharp angles which you may want to cut down to reduce leverage on weak points.

The only area I wish TLR fixed was the slipper.  The HDS spring is tons better than the previous spring, as you can now actually get enough tension on the slipper, but the 2 pad setup is still lacking.  There isn't enough bite, and the pads glaze too easily.


Performance: 9
The 22T 3.0 has more rear traction than before, probably due to the stand-up.  It accelerates and brakes more smoothly due to the 3-gear transmission. 

It steers way better than before.  Like, way better.  I think there is more steering travel lock-to-lock, which was a weakness of the previous truck in my opinion.  It enters the corner with more steering, has much more mid corner steering, and maybe even a hair more exit steering.  It flies through the air straighter (I think due to the massive wing that channels air down the center).  Landing seemed to have too much pack initially, but going to different springs helped quite a bit and it now lands very smoothly.

It is better than the 2.0 in every way.  Period.

The only area I that let me down is the slipper/topshaft.  The HDS spring makes it tolerable, but it doesn't grab enough and you have to put on a ridiculously amount of tension to get it to work.  If they upgraded the slipper, I would confidently give this truck a 10.  It is that good, only marred by a weak slipper system.  If you put garodisc pads and an MIP topshaft, you will love this truck.  I imagine there will be a lot of big races won by it.

The rear wing is also kind of goofy -- it is way too big and caused my truck to slap the chassis on the face of jumps, but after I cut it down by 50%, it flew beautifully.

Durability: 10
My local tracks currently features a ridiculously huge double that I can only make about 8/10 times.  This means I've crashed the truck A LOT, and in pretty much every conceivable way.  I've lawn-darted it, I've hit walls, I've carwheeled the truck multiple times, I've even hit a steel pole at full bore.  Nothing has broken.  Literally nothing.  A ballcup popped off once, and that's basically it.

The body is getting beat up, and the giant wing also tends to crack the body, but it thick and is holding up with some shoe-goo.

I give the truck a 10 in durability, it has been basically indestructible so far.  This number may be revised if the plastics don't wear as well as I think they should, but only time will tell.

Value: 5
The 22T 2.0 sold for $299, which was an amazing value.  The 3.0 sells for $349 which is quite a bit more, especially when you consider the previous version came with both rear and mid-motor parts and bodies!

The 3.0 has a more adjustable steering system and some nice durability updates like an aluminum idler gear and aluminum rear camber block.  But overall, I feel like it is only a fair value compared to its competitors.  If it included aluminum rear hexes, I would consider the value pretty good, but you will need to buy those on your own.

Support: 8
With the advent of the TLR build videos in addition to the online forum support, I feel like TLR has really stepped up their game.  They will post setup sheets from time to time and their staff is always available on social media and online.  They are definitely well above average in this category.

Dislikes:
The slipper is really the only weak part on the truck.  It would also be nice if they included aluminum rear hexes, as the plastic ones really suck.  I pretty much consider that a necessity, it's pretty absurd that you have to worry about losing drivepins every time you take off a rear wheel.  Other than that, I have no complaints.

Tips:
  • The 4-gear/3-gear composite idler will also fit this truck if you're racing stock class.  Part number:  TLR2966.
  • Garodisc pads will also make for a huge improvement in the performance of the truck.  It will engage/disengage more smoothly with less spring tension. 
  • Cut down the rear wing.  It's way too big.  Also trim down the rear wheel well overhangs, and this will reduce the amount of cracking on the rear wing mount.
  • Make sure you motor spray the set screws in the CVA's before using threadlock.  They are not captured, and definitely need to be tight.

Conclusion:
The TLR 22T 3.0 is better in every performance category over its predecessor.  It drives better, is more durable, is easier to work on, has more tunability.  It comes at a bit of a price increase, and you no longer can go rear motor.  But if you're racing on medium-high traction dirt, I think this truck will be putting you atop the podium.

Highly recommended.

Wednesday, March 1, 2017

...of mice and men!

Today was a 180 degree turnaround from yesterday.  The truck is dialed!

I got about 6 battery packs in on my 22T 3.0 and found the stock wing has a ridiculous amount of drag and downforce.  Trimming it down by 40% allowed my truck to jump about a foot further on the giant double, and it no longer chassis slaps on the face of the jump.  I think they made it too big, it's about 2" tall and is like a giant parachute on the back of the truck.

I also installed my trusty Avid Triad slipper with garodisc pads, and it works way better.  The garodisc pads are more consistent, smoother on/off, and don't glaze over like the stock pads.  The slipper also drops rotating weight on the drivetrain and gave me another foot on the jump.  I can now consistently make the big double, even down to 7.8v on the battery.

The last thing I tested was TLR low frequency springs front and rear.  I'm still playing with front springs, but the rear LF yellow springs are working well.  I got the front colors messed up and accidentally put on the softest (pink) front springs.  It gave ridiculous front end grip, but it's definitely too soft, lol.