Team Associated RC10 B6/B6D initial thoughts

I have the car built and was able to put in a few sessions with the car.  I had some electronics issues that I think I’ve sorted out, but I got enough time in to gather some initial thoughts.

Is it worth it?

Yes!  It’s a great car, has even more adjustments than the B5, and is more versatile.  It’s also lighter out of the box, by about 20 grams over the B5M Factory Lite.

Which one should I get, the B6 or B6D?

I run on mid-high traction indoor clay.  When the track is perfect, it’s high traction clay where slicks are a must.  Even in these high traction conditions, I recommend getting the B6D and feel the B6 is only going to be wanted on carpet/astroturf.  I bought a B6, and ran kit setup on high traction, and it was completely wrong for the indoor clay.  I’ve converted the car to basically a B6D with laydown, and it’s starting to get very good.  The kit setup is very close.

Any tips?

• Put some loctite on the battery strap nuts, they are tiny and easy to lose and don’t have that many threads to secure. 
  
• Use shorter screws on the wing button mount, you’re going to be taking that thing on and off a LOT. 
  
• For the B6, there are a couple of errors in the manual – the main one is that you use M3x14mm screws on the top of the transmission mount to screw into the camber block, not M3x8mm.  When in doubt, consult the B6D manual, it’s more accurate.
• The body needs to be trimmed in the midsection a little more than the cut lines – the chassis bends up in the middle, so the body will be shorter there.